Txhua ob lub tsheb thauj khaub ncaws mus rau qhov chaw pov tseg. Cov neeg siv khoom paub txog qhov no tsis xav yuav cov khoom uas tsis yog ib puag ncig. Txuag lub ntiaj teb thiab lawv tus kheej ua lag luam, cov khw muag khaub ncaws tau ua haujlwm los xaws khoom ntawm txiv tsawb thiab algae
Nyob rau hauv ib lub Hoobkas qhov loj ntawm lub tshav dav hlau davhlau ya nyob twg, laser cutters shred ntev paj rwb nplooj, txiav tawm dab tsi yuav ua lub tes tsho ntawm Zara lub tsho. Txog rau xyoo dhau los, cov khoom seem uas poob rau hauv cov pob tawb hlau tau siv los ua cov khoom siv rau cov rooj tog zaum lossis xa ncaj nraim mus rau qhov chaw pov tseg ntawm lub nroog Arteijo nyob rau sab qaum teb Spain. Tam sim no lawv tau ua tshuaj lom neeg rau hauv cellulose, sib xyaw nrog ntoo fiber ntau, thiab tsim cov khoom hu ua refibra, uas yog siv los ua ntau tshaj li kaum ob ntawm cov khaub ncaws: T-shirts, ris, saum.
Qhov no yog qhov pib ntawm Inditex, lub tuam txhab uas muaj Zara thiab xya lwm hom. Tag nrho lawv sawv cev rau ib ntu ntawm kev lag luam zam paub txog cov khaub ncaws pheej yig uas dej nyab cov khaub ncaws ntawm cov neeg yuav khoom thaum pib ntawm txhua lub caij thiab tom qab ob peb lub hlis mus rau hauv lub thoob khib nyiab lossis mus rau qhov chaw nyob deb tshaj plaws ntawm lub wardrobe.
- Ntxiv rau lawv, Gap cog lus tias tsuas yog siv cov tub qhe los ntawm cov liaj teb organic lossis los ntawm kev lag luam uas tsis ua mob rau ib puag ncig los ntawm 2021;
- Nyiv lub tuam txhab Fast Retailing, uas yog tus tswv Uniqlo, tab tom sim nrog kev ua laser kom txo tau kev siv dej thiab tshuaj hauv cov ris tsho muaj kev ntxhov siab;
- Swedish loj heev Hennes & Mauritz tab tom nqis peev hauv kev pib ua lag luam uas tshwj xeeb hauv kev txhim kho cov khoom siv pov tseg thiab kev tsim khoom los ntawm cov khoom siv tsis yog ib txwm siv, xws li nceb mycelium.
H&M CEO Karl-Johan Persson hais tias "Ib qho ntawm cov teeb meem loj tshaj plaws yog yuav ua li cas muab kev zam rau cov pej xeem ib txwm muaj kev loj hlob thaum ua tus phooj ywg ib puag ncig," hais tias H&M CEO Karl-Johan Persson. "Peb tsuas yog yuav tsum tau hloov mus rau tus qauv tsim khoom xoom pov tseg."
Kev lag luam $ 3 trillion siv cov paj rwb, dej thiab hluav taws xob uas tsis tuaj yeem xav txog los tsim 100 billion daim ntawm khaub ncaws thiab khoom siv txhua xyoo, 60% ntawm cov uas, raws li McKinsey, raug pov tseg hauv ib xyoos. Tsawg dua 1% ntawm cov khoom tsim tau rov ua dua tshiab, Rob Opsomer, tus neeg ua haujlwm ntawm lub tuam txhab tshawb fawb Askiv Ellen MacArthur Foundation, lees paub. "Txog tag nrho cov tsheb thauj khoom ntawm cov ntaub mus rau qhov chaw pov tseg txhua ob," nws hais.
Hauv 2016, Inditex tau tsim 1,4 lab daim khaub ncaws. Qhov kev tsim tawm no tau pab lub tuam txhab nce nws cov nqi lag luam ze li tsib npaug ntawm kaum xyoo dhau los. Tab sis tam sim no kev lag luam kev loj hlob tau qeeb: ntau txhiab xyoo, uas ntsuas qhov cuam tshuam ntawm "ceev zam" ntawm ib puag ncig, nyiam them rau cov kev paub thiab kev xav, tsis yog rau yam. Inditex thiab H&M cov nyiaj tau los tau poob qis ntawm cov kws tshuaj ntsuam kev cia siab nyob rau xyoo tas los no, thiab cov tuam txhab lag luam kev lag luam tau poob qis li ntawm ib feem peb hauv 2018. "Lawv cov qauv kev lag luam tsis yog xoom pov tseg," said Edwin Ke, CEO ntawm Hong Kong Light. Kev lag luam tshawb fawb lub koom haum. "Tab sis peb txhua tus twb muaj khoom txaus lawm."
Qhov sib txawv ntawm lub luag haujlwm ntawm kev noj qab haus huv dictates nws tus kheej tej yam kev mob: cov tuam txhab uas hloov mus rau nkim ntau lawm nyob rau hauv lub sij hawm yuav tau txais kev sib tw kom zoo dua. Txhawm rau txo cov khoom pov tseg, cov khw muag khoom tau teeb tsa cov ntim tshwj xeeb hauv ntau lub khw muag khoom uas cov neeg siv khoom tuaj yeem tso cov khoom uas yuav xa mus rau rov ua dua tshiab.
Accenture tus kws pab tswv yim muag khoom Jill Standish ntseeg tias cov tuam txhab uas tsim cov khaub ncaws ruaj khov tuaj yeem nyiam cov neeg siv khoom ntau dua. "Ib lub hnab ua los ntawm cov nplooj txiv hmab txiv ntoo los yog hnav khaub ncaws ua los ntawm txiv kab ntxwv tev tsis yog yam khoom xwb, muaj ib zaj dab neeg nthuav qab lawv," nws hais.
H&M lub hom phiaj los tsim txhua yam los ntawm cov khoom siv rov ua dua tshiab thiab ruaj khov los ntawm 2030 (tam sim no feem ntawm cov khoom no yog 35%). Txij li xyoo 2015, lub tuam txhab tau txhawb nqa kev sib tw rau kev pib ua lag luam uas nws cov thev naus laus zis pab txo qhov cuam tshuam tsis zoo ntawm kev lag luam zam rau ib puag ncig. Cov neeg sib tw sib tw rau € 1 lab ($ 1,2 lab) nyiaj pab. Ib qho ntawm xyoo tas los tus yeej yog Smart Stitch, uas tsim cov xov uas yaj ntawm qhov kub thiab txias. Cov cuab yeej no yuav pab txhim kho cov khoom siv rov ua dua tshiab, ua kom yooj yim rau kev tshem cov nyees khawm thiab zippers ntawm khaub ncaws. Startup Crop-A-Porter tau kawm yuav ua li cas los tsim cov xov paj los ntawm cov khib nyiab los ntawm flax, txiv tsawb thiab pineapple cog. Lwm tus neeg sib tw tau tsim cov thev naus laus zis los cais cov fibers ntawm cov khoom sib txawv thaum ua cov ntaub sib xyaw, thaum lwm tus pib ua khaub ncaws los ntawm nceb thiab algae.
Nyob rau hauv 2017, Inditex pib rov ua dua cov khaub ncaws qub rau hauv qhov hu ua daim nrog keeb kwm. Qhov tshwm sim ntawm tag nrho cov tuam txhab kev sim hauv kev ua haujlwm ntawm lub luag haujlwm tsim khoom (cov khoom ua los ntawm cov paj rwb organic, kev siv cov ribbed thiab lwm yam khoom siv hauv eco) yog qhov Join Life khaub ncaws kab. Nyob rau hauv 2017, 50% ntau yam khoom tawm los ntawm cov khoom no, tab sis nyob rau hauv tag nrho cov muag khoom ntawm Inditex, xws li khaub ncaws tsim tsis ntau tshaj 10%. Txhawm rau ua kom cov ntaub ntawv ruaj khov, lub tuam txhab txhawb nqa kev tshawb fawb ntawm Massachusetts Institute of Technology thiab ntau lub tsev kawm ntawv Spanish.
Los ntawm 2030, H&M npaj yuav nce qhov feem pua ntawm cov khoom siv rov ua dua lossis cov khoom siv ruaj khov hauv nws cov khoom rau 100% ntawm 35% tam sim no
Ib qho ntawm cov thev naus laus zis uas cov kws tshawb fawb tau ua haujlwm yog kev tsim cov khaub ncaws los ntawm cov khoom lag luam ntawm kev ua ntoo siv 3D luam ntawv. Lwm cov kws tshawb fawb tab tom kawm cais cov paj rwb los ntawm polyester fibers hauv kev ua cov ntaub sib xyaw.
German Garcia Ibáñez, uas saib xyuas kev rov ua dua tshiab ntawm Inditex hais tias "Peb tab tom sim nrhiav cov ntawv ntsuab ntawm txhua cov ntaub ntawv," hais tias German Garcia Ibáñez. Raws li nws, cov ris tsho ua los ntawm cov khoom siv rov ua dua tam sim no tsuas muaj 15% cov paj rwb rov siv dua - cov fibers qub hnav thiab yuav tsum tau tov nrog cov tshiab.
Inditex thiab H&M hais tias cov tuam txhab them cov nqi ntxiv uas cuam tshuam nrog kev siv cov khoom siv rov ua dua tshiab thiab rov ua dua tshiab. Koom nrog lub neej cov khoom raug nqi ib yam li lwm cov khaub ncaws hauv khw Zara: T-shirts muag tsawg dua $ 10, thaum lub ris feem ntau raug nqi tsis tshaj $ 40. H&M kuj tseem hais txog nws lub hom phiaj los khaws cov nqi qis rau cov khaub ncaws ua los ntawm cov khoom siv ruaj khov, lub tuam txhab cia siab tias nrog kev loj hlob hauv kev tsim khoom, tus nqi ntawm cov khoom zoo li no yuav qis dua. "Tsis txhob yuam cov neeg siv khoom them tus nqi, peb tsuas yog pom nws yog kev nqis peev mus ntev," hais tias Anna Gedda, uas saib xyuas kev tsim khoom ruaj khov ntawm H&M. "Peb ntseeg tias kev zam ntsuab tuaj yeem tsim nyog rau txhua tus neeg siv khoom."