Yog hais tias shea, jojoba, avocado thiab soy yog npau suav ntawm cosmetologists thiab ecological kiv cua ntawm kev zoo nkauj thiab kev noj qab haus huv, nws yog tsim nyog los mus los ntawm xab npum ua ntej mus txog ntawm cov khoom no thiaj li qhuas rau lawv cov txiaj ntsig. Cov txheej txheem ntawm kev ua xab npum hu ua saponification. Cov khoom uas tau txais los ntawm nws yog cov tsis muaj kev ruaj ntseg.

Lo lus no los ntawm Latin: nyob rau hauv private, sapo rau xab npum thiab abilis rau muaj peev xwm. Yog li nws yog ib yam khoom uas tsis muaj peev xwm tig mus rau hauv xab npum. Yuav kom nkag siab txog unsaponification, ib tug yuav tsum to taub dab tsi saponification yog, uas yog, keeb kwm ntawm xab npum ua.

Txog thaum xyoo pua 19th, peb ntxuav, tshem tawm thiab ua kom tsis muaj xim (piv txwv li cov plaub hau) nrog xab npum tau nrog cov tsiaj rog (feem ntau nqaij npuas) uas peb tau hnov ​​​​qab nrog potash (lub hauv paus tam sim no hauv cov tshauv). Tom qab ntawd, peb siv cov roj zaub uas tau hnov ​​​​mob nrog dej qab zib (piv tau los ntawm dej hiav txwv.

Txhawm rau kom tau txais txiaj ntsig zoo dua, kev lag luam kub saponification tau maj mam hloov khaub thuas saponification, artisanal tab sis uas ua rau rov qab los vim nws khaws cov khoom zoo ntawm cov rog (ua kom puas los ntawm tshav kub).

Los xaus:

• Cov teeb meem tsis txaus ntseeg yog cov seem seem (insoluble hauv dej tab sis soluble hauv cov kuab tshuaj organic) tau txais tom qab saponification;
• Nyob rau hauv ib qho kev sib npaug: roj los yog fatty tshuaj + dej qab zib = xab npum + glycerin + non-saponifiable non-glyceridic feem;
• Ib feem ntawm cov zaub tsis muaj roj pom cov ntawv thov hauv cosmetology rau nws cov khoom lom.

Yuav kom nkag siab txog kev txaus siab ntawm unsaponifiables, peb yuav tsum mus dhau lub thawv: kev laus thiab cov tawv nqaij oxidation. Lub cev tsim cov dawb radicals uas nws txoj haujlwm yog los ntxuav cov tawv nqaij. Lawv tus kheej tshem tawm. Tab sis nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv ntawm overproduction (kev ua qias tuaj, haus luam yeeb, UV, thiab lwm yam), lawv tua lub hlwb thiab lawv cov ntsiab lus (elastin, collagen). Qhov no hu ua "oxidative stress" lub luag haujlwm rau kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Thiab qhov no yog qhov uas cov unsaponifiables qhia lawv cov txiaj ntsig.

Cov npe ntev. Raws li peb tau nkag siab, nws yog cov roj zaub uas siv. Txhua yam khoom lossis "active" muaj nws cov khoom. Lawv yog cov khoom muaj nqis rau daim tawv nqaij.

• Polyphenols muaj cov khoom tseem ceeb antioxidant (ntawm lawv, tannins yog cov tshuaj tua kab mob, flavonoids yog tshuaj tiv thaiv thiab lignans yog seboregulators);
• Phytosterols ( zaub roj cholesterol) yog kho, kho thiab muaj zog tiv thaiv kab mob. Lawv txhim kho "barrier" ua haujlwm ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab microcirculation. Lawv slows ntawm daim tawv nqaij laus;
• Carotenoids muab "zoo saib." Lawv yog cov uas pleev xim rau cov roj. Lawv yog cov muaj zog ntuj antioxidants uas rov tsim dua thiab kho cov tawv nqaij. Lawv txhawb cov synthesis ntawm collagen thiab photoprotectors.

Cov npe tseem muaj ntau cov vitamins:

• B vitamins tiv thaiv thiab rov tsim cov hlwb;
• Vitamin C accelerates kho;
• Vitamin D tswj thiab pab txhawb kev nqus ntawm calcium. Nws tuav lub hydration ntawm daim tawv nqaij;
• Vitamin E tiv thaiv kev laus los ntawm nws cov tshuaj tua kab mob antioxidant thiab tiv thaiv tshuaj lom;
• Vitamin K txwv qhov liab liab.

Ntxiv rau daim ntawv no:

• Enzymes: tiv thaiv kev laus;
• Resinous esters: tiv thaiv thiab kho;
• Squalenes: antioxidants.

Feem ntau cov roj thiab lwm cov rog muaj 2% lossis tsawg dua cov teeb meem tsis zoo. Tab sis qee qhov lwm tus muaj ntau dua:

• Shea butter muaj 15%. Shea lossis "butter tree" lossis "poj niam kub" loj hlob hauv West Africa. Nws tsim cov txiv ntoo uas nws nias almonds muab butter. Qhov no butter yog siv los hydrate thiab soften daim tawv nqaij;
• Beeswax thiab Jojoba roj muaj 50%. Jojoba yog ib txwm nyob rau yav qab teb Tebchaws Meskas thiab sab qaum teb Mexico, tab sis tam sim no cog qoob loo nyob hauv ntau lub tebchaws. Nws yog nws cov noob (hu ua taum los yog almonds) uas muaj cov roj khawv koob;
• Avocado thiab soybean roj yog paub nyob rau hauv cov tshuaj rau lawv cov kev tiv thaiv kev mob caj dab: ib tug tshuaj yog siv nyob rau hauv rheumatology (osteoarthritis ntawm lub hauv caug thiab lub duav) thiab nyob rau hauv stomatology tab sis lawv SMR (qhov txiaj ntsig tiag tiag) yog suav tias yog tsis txaus lossis txawm tias txaus ntshai. Cov no yog cov ISAs: unsaponifiables ntawm soya thiab avocado uas muaj undesirable teebmeem tab sis tsis muaj kev phom sij hauv lawv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce.
• Nws yuav tsum tau muab sau tseg tias surgras soaps yog soaps nyob rau hauv uas unsaponifiables tau qhia uas tau yaj nyob rau hauv cov organic solvents.